Guideline for Applying Moly Resin
- Color Selection
- Metal Preparation, Air Blasting and Media
- Agitation (shaking the bottle) and Airbrush
- Oven Types, Hanging Parts and Pre-Heating
- Application of the Coating
- Heat/Curing the Coating, Special Curing Instructions and Temperature Accuracy
- Testing for Adhesion and Curing
- Cleanup and Thinning
- Other Information
Moly Resin was specifically designed for firearm owners for application in your shop or home. In the past, a similar finish was obtainable only by vatting, anodizing, bluing or Parkerizing. The preparation and application process of Moly Resin is based on simple common sense standards used in the painting industry, whether it is painting homes, automobiles or firearms. There is a short learning curve in producing perfectly coated firearms for your pleasure and others. Degrease, prep the metal, pre-heat parts, airbrush spray with Moly Resin and cure in an oven. The use of an inexpensive and easy to use airbrush for application allows you to reproduce the same level of quality as do firearm manufacturers and professional refinishing shops. See our Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) section for details on specifics not answered in the following information. If ever in doubt of your skill or how a part will look, it is a good idea to use a small piece of scrap metal to practice with before coating your firearm.
MOLY RESIN COLORS
BLACK FLAT SOCOM (Matte) – Current common black flat color used by Colt, Bushmaster, etc. for the AR-15 & M-16 and other USGI type firearms starting mid-1980’s to current. This is the original flat color submitted for testing and evaluation to the U.S. Special Operations Command.
BLACK SEMI-GLOSS – Black with just a slight gloss sheen. Also may be called Black Satin. Frequent color and sheen you may find on many imported AK type rifles, HK MP5, UZI, and also matches many commercial U.S. made hunting rifles and handguns.
BLACK GLOSSY – Black with a glossy sheen that exceeds Black Semi-Gloss. Depending on metal preparation technique, the coating can be applied to look extremely glossy and shiny and match some high gloss application needs.
GRAYISH-BLACK FLAT – This is a dual color product. Dark gray-black flat color and sheen that matches the most common production colors of the earlier Colt AR-15 (model SP1) and M16A1 from the 1970’s to mid-1980’s. When desired, if the curing temperature and bake time are modified a slight green hue/tint can be produced to replicate the greenish color of old Parkerized U.S. Military rifles resulting from them being stored in Cosmoline.
GRAYISH-BLACK SEMI-GLOSS – This is a dual color product. Dark gray-black but with a slight sheen. Also may be called Gray-Black Satin. This color is also popular in closely matching the older Colt AR-15 (model SP1) and M-16A1 but when a slight amount of gloss sheen is desired. When desired, if the curing temperature and bake time are modified a slight green hue/tint can be produced to replicate the greenish color of old Parkerized U.S. Military rifles resulting from them being stored in Cosmoline.
GRAY FLAT – Gray Flat is one shade lighter than Gray-Black Flat. The older Colt AR-15 and M16 colors varied slightly from one production to another. Gray Flat is a slightly lighter variation. Gray Flat examples can also be seen in some WWI and WWII firearms.
LIGHT GRAY FLAT – A lighter gray with no black tones. Sometimes called machinery gray. Close match to some colors used by various militaries on some heavy machine guns in WWI and WWII. Also seen on some on East European subguns. A good choice for making a lighter camo pattern.
GRAYISH-GREEN FLAT –This is a close match to U.S. Military dark green ammo cans and is a darker version of the of the U.S. Military O.D. Green.
O.D. GREEN – Olive Drab Green is the official color of U.S. uniforms from WWII through introduction of camouflage patterned BDU’s in the 1980’s.
FOLIAGE GREEN – A greenish shade of gray found along with slate gray and sand colors in the U.S. Army’s new UCP (Universal Camouflage Pattern) on ACU uniforms. This color is sometimes also called Lichen or Agave Green, and Tango Down Foliage Green, etc.
TAN FLAT (Flat Dark Earth) – The latest Tan color adopted by the U.S. Military for Middle Eastern desert colors. Spec 30118 color, Fed spec 595B. Common TAN color used by many AR-15/M16 manufacturers.
BROWN FLAT – Basic U.S. Military brown color used for equipment and camo.
COYOTE BROWN FLAT – This is a more recent color match used by numerous AR-15/M16 polymer stock and forearm manufactures. Just slightly darker than standard Tan Flat Dark Earth. Note: Manufacturers of polymer parts may unintentionally have slightly different shades of their intended color in each run of parts.
MAGPUL TAN (FLAT DARK EARTH) – Matched to Magpul Tan ( Flat Dark Earth) stocks and forearms. Note: Manufacturers of polymer parts may unintentionally have slightly different shades of their intended color in each run of parts.
MAGPUL STEALTH GRAY FLAT – Matched to Magpul Stealth Gray stocks and forearms. Note: Manufacturers of polymer parts may unintentionally have slightly different shades of their intended color in each run of parts.
MAGPUL O.D. GREEN FLAT – Matched to Magpul O.D. Green stocks and forearms. Note: Manufacturers of polymer parts may unintentionally have slightly different shades of their intended color in each run of parts.
RED, WHITE, BLUE AND YELLOW FLAT – These are flat medium shades of popular colors used for special firearm projects or camo patterns. Yellow require a white base undercoat to get the full best yellow color.
PINK SEMI-GLOSS – True full pink color in semi-gloss satin sheen used for special projects. Perfect for creating gift ideas the female shooter. A good color comparison would be a match to the pink color of pepto bismol.
STAINLESS STEEL SATIN – Close match to the appearance of glass beaded stainless steel. A pleasantly close match to stainless. Used primarily to make aluminum and regular steel parts mimic a stainless appearance.
CLEAR COAT SATIN – Moly Resin without any pigment coloration. May be used over cured colored coating or directly on metal for special purpose use.
BURNT BRONZE FLAT – This is a match to the unique burnt bronze metallic color being used in the firearms industry.
Moly Resin Thermal Cure coatings will adhere to all metals when the metal surface is prepared correctly or the metal already has a suitable finish for good coating adhesion. The best adhesion to a metal surface for any coating regardless of its brand or type is when it is applied to a surface that has a slight texture. Example: Metal that has been air blasted with a fine media like garnet, aluminum oxide or fine sand is an excellent method of surface preparation. Another excellent alternative is to place Moly Resin over a Parkerized surface since the phosphate action of Parkerizing creates a textured crust on the metal. Placing Moly Resin over an anodized or blued surface will suffice also if the surface is not polished or very slick. Chrome, nickel and other surfaces that are very slick are not good choices for coatings unless these surfaces are lightly blasted to create some texture. Lightly blasting to scuff the surface is not meant to remove the chrome or nickel finish or anodized finish.
Air Blasting and Media
The surface of the parts before blasting should be clean and free of any oils, grease or debris etc. Best cleaning methods can be as simple as soap and water or solvents like Acetone, alcohol, spray automotive brake cleaner, ultrasonic cleaning, etc. The best prep is to air blast with fine media to create a uniform slight texture on the metal to create the best surface for adhesion. You can also use the blasting process to blend out fine scratches and surface imperfections. We recommend medium-fine grit size of Garnet or aluminum oxide (60 to 100 grit size). Fine sand works well too and is technically called #4 Sand but may also be labeled as Play Sand at Home Depot, Lowes, etc. Generally speaking, glass beads are not adequate in preparing a surface for coating since they polish the surface and don’t treat a texture. A blasting cabinet can be used if you want to recycle the media or a simple inexpensive hand held blasting gun used in your back yard is an easy way to blast. These hand held units can be found at Sears, Harbor Freight, TP Tools, etc. They have a bottle attached to the bottom to hold a couple quarts of sand. To create a consistent metal texture especially when blasting firearms that have both steel and aluminum parts, we recommend you cut your air pressure to 40 to 50 psi for aluminum and for steel we recommend 60 to 80 psi. Exceeding 80 psi does speed up the blasting process but may be too aggressive for the texture cosmetics you may seek and that higher pressure will break down the media much more quickly into dust, especially if you plan to recycle it in a blast cabinet.
Once the surface is blasted, the dust from the blasting media should be washed off or blown off with clean compressed air. If you use water to wash dust off the blasted parts, blow the metal dry quickly with clean air or dry the parts in the oven to prevent any metal oxidation or rust that may start to form on the fresh surface.
It is very important that Moly Resin products are shaken long enough to remove all the pigments off the bottom of the bottle and place them into solution. Spraying without the full pigment load mixed into solution can produce unsatisfactory results in sheen and color. We provide the product in a clear bottle so you can see when the pigment is fully in suspension. If you let your airbrush sit too long with a bottle attached without agitation, the pigment can also settle out on the bottom of the bottle.
The best sprayer for Moly Resin can be an inexpensive and simple to use external mix airbrush. The most common run $10 to $50 and can be found at discount stores in the craft departments. They can be powered by air can, automobile spare tire, or air compressor regulated down to 25 to 30 psi. An airbrush is a precision tool but easy to use. Professional automotive or commercial spray guns will spray way too much coating and can easily create undesirable cosmetics. Remember, you are coating your firearm and small parts and not spraying an automobile, house or boat. An external mix airbrush mixes the coating and air on the outside of the airbrush at the nozzle. This keeps the coating from running through internal parts of the brush like an internal mix model. External mix airbrushes are much easier to clean than an internal mix model. You want to avoid any sprayer that does not allow you to adjust the volume or spray pattern size. A Badger Model 350 is a perfect airbrush to use that is inexpensive. Regulate the air pressure from air source for the airbrush to about 25 to 30 psi. Very inexpensive knock-off models of the Badger are at Harbor Freight are below $10 (#62294 Central Pneumatic) and work fine also in the short term. The nozzle parts are interchangeable. If you plan to do a lot of spraying and want a long term use airbrush that is comfortable to hold for extended periods of time you may find the more expensive Bink/Wren Model 59-1002B (medium nozzle) as a great choice for very frequent use.
It is always a good idea to place some type of small inexpensive disposable inline air/water filter in your airline just before it goes to the airbrush. Walmart and other paint store have these. These small filters clean the air to make sure water, compressor oil, etc. does not spray out along with the coating. These airbrushes can be cleaned easily running some MEK through the brush to flush it out. Other cleaning methods are to occasionally do a full cleaning by submerging the entire brush in a Tupperware type container with MEK solvent and let it soak. The MEK will dissolve coating deposits and make the brush look new again. If you disassembly of the nozzle, it only takes a couple minutes to do to clean out any coating debris. Generally running MEK though the assembled brush after you run coating through it is all that is needed to keep the brush clean and working from spray session to the next spray session.
A home cooking oven can be utilized to provide the curing heat to harden the coating. Simply support parts with some metal hooks made from wire or bent paper clips. If you are frequently refinishing, a more convenient heat source is to make a vertical oven using a “school Locker.” A vertical oven allows you to hang barrels and complete barreled receivers along with other parts. An inexpensive broiler/toaster oven can be purchased at Walmart and the parts of the oven (coils, timer, thermostat, etc.) can be built into the school locker and creates a perfect oven for curing. Place the locker on wheels and you now make it mobile to roll out when you need it.
Hanging Parts in Oven
There is always a way to hang a part in an oven. Use pieces of wire to make hooks or bend large paperclips to create a hook on the end of the wire and hook it through a hole in a part. If the part does not have a hole for a hook, simply place alligator clips on the end of the hooks and clamp the alligator clip a place on the part that will hold it. When spraying, reposition the alligator clip as needed to make sure you have the entire part coated. Wires with large clamping devices can be used too such as battery charger clamps. You can also cure barrels that are longer than your home oven by curing each end of the barrel separately. Hang the barrel in the oven with one end sticking out and cover the gap between the door and oven with aluminum foil to hold the heat in. Once the end if the barrel in the oven is cured, reverse the process and cure the other end of the barrel.
Once the metal has been prepared, the parts should be hung in an oven to pre-heat them for coating. The temperature of the metal should be heated to a minimum of 150 f when coating so the heat can evaporate the solvents immediately to avoid runs. This also creates the flattest sheen. Preheating the parts to the same temperature that you will cure at (300 f) is common also since by the time you take the part out of the oven, hang it to spray, etc., the temp of the metal will have dropped significantly. The higher pre-heat temperature of the metal will give you a flatter sheen of the coating. Pre-heating also lets you know if you have adequately degreased your parts as oil will run out of any crevice you did not clean.
Application of the Coating
The airbrush nozzle adjustment should be set to spray a light mist as you coat with an air pressure regulated down to about to 25 to 30 psi. The best cosmetics are achieved by 6 or 7 light passes to coat an area rather than 1 or 2 heavy passes. Applying in light passes also allows you to spray from numerous angles and directions so you can apply the coating uniformly.
If you are spraying a flat color but you are getting semi-gloss or glossy sheen results, you need to correct your technique. You are either spraying too much coating volume and wetting the metal or you are trying to cover an area with one or two passes. If you want a flat coating to have the appearance to be a flat sheen, don’t wet the metal as you spray, keep the volume cut back on the nozzle and spray in numerous light passes.
If you see wet spots on your metal surface when spraying you either are spraying too much volume of coating, spraying too close to the metal or trying to coat an area in too few passes. You can always reheat your parts as needed to keep them hot to evaporate the solvents when the coating hits the hot metal. Keep the airbrush moving so you don’t hold it in one spot and wet the metal. When done correctly, your coating should be fairly dry to the touch after spraying before you place the part in the oven for curing. Exception: Glossy Black should be sprayed on metal near room temperature for the highest gloss sheen. Glossy black will be sticky before curing so don’t touch until cured.
Heat/Curing the Coating
After you have coated your parts adequately, they parts should be cured in an oven. Inspect your parts carefully before curing to make sure you sprayed them to your standards before final curing. Moly Resin can be removed with Acetone or MEK before curing. After curing you can’t remove it with a chemical so you will need to re-blast. We have an ongoing $25 reward for anyone that can find a chemical that can be safely used remove cured Moly Resin. While chemical resistance is an extremely important positive characteristic of cured Moly Resin since you can’t damage it with gun cleaning solvents, oils, bore cleaners, it stresses the importance of making sure you’ve got the part looking like you want it before curing. You can, however, re-heat and touch up later if you missed a spot. To remove cured Moly Resin you will likely need to re-blast the parts.
The chemicals in Moly Resin that allow it to harden are already in the Moly Resin. Moly Resin products are not typical paints and unless heated will be dry but not hardened. The hardening catalyst is fully activated at 300 degrees and the minimal cure time should be 1 full hour. Curing for a longer time is fine but not required. Heating the parts to cure at lower temperatures for longer periods of time will not adequately harden the coating.
Special Curing Instructions
Glossy Black Moly Resin needs to be cured at 315 to 325 f. The highest gloss of the product is when coating over metal room temperature and may also be placed over pre-heated metal but may produce slightly less gloss. Practice on a small piece of scrap metal to check your technique.
The Grayish-Black Flat and Grayish-Black Semi-gloss coatings have a unique characteristic in that if you cure at the normal temp of 300 f. at one hour they will produce a grayish-black color. If you raise the temperature and cure for a longer period of time, the color will take on a greenish hue that is similar to old Parkerized U.S. Military rifle that were stored in Cosmoline grease and turned slightly green. This green hue is very desirable for some users of the product.
Special Curing Instructions for Grayish-Black to create greenish coloration for older Parkerized military rifles and/or match some very early Colt AR-15/M-16 rifles.
Color Desired Temperature Oven Time
Grayish-Black 300 f. 1 Hour
Green Hue Gray-Black 325 to 350 f. 1.5 hours or longer
When attempting to create the green hue, it is important to keep checking the oven to catch the green at the depth of color you desire. The longer it is left at the higher temperature the greener it will become. We suggest you practice on a piece of scrap metal first to get familiar with the process.
Oven Temperature Accuracy
Home ovens are notorious for producing inaccurate temperatures. We recommend you check the accuracy of your home oven with a small inexpensive thermometer (homeware department at Walmart). Compensate with the oven temp dial to get the oven to the desired temperature for curing if your oven is inaccurate.
Testing for Adhesion and Curing
If in doubt that you have adequate cured (hardened) the coating there are a couple simple tests you can quickly do. If the coating has not been cured, it will wipe off down to the metal with a paper towel wet with Acetone or MEK. If cured, you will get very color that will color the paper towel. If you have concerns about whether you have provided a proper surface for best adhesion, take a piece of duct tape and apply to the cured surface and then rip it off. If no coating come off with the tape, especially at joints and edged areas, then you are good to go.
Cleanup and Thinning
After spraying, a good clean up solvent is Acetone or MEK. An easy cleanup method is to simply run some MEK or Acetone though the airbrush from the airbrush bottle. This will flush the coating out of the nozzle. Occasionally for a more thorough cleaning soak the airbrush in MEK. No thinning is needed for the coating as it comes ready to spray but if there is a need to thin, use MEK. Both are available at home Depot or any paint store. If, for some reason, you need to thin the coating, such as leaving the cap off the bottle off for an extended period of time and solvent has evaporated making the coating thicker, you can add just a little bit of MEK. Before curing you can use MEK for cleaning and removing coating from parts that you may wish to re-spray. Once cured with heat, the coating can’t be removed with any type solvent we are aware of. So make sure your part looks perfect before curing.
Moly Resin is a thermally cured coating, therefore it is temperature sensitive. Storage should be in a cool area that is out of the sun. Room temperature storage in your shop is fine and under normal conditions you should expect a one year shelf life. For extended storage times you may want to keep it in a refrigerator. Storing in a metal can rather than polymer bottle will also extend its shelf life. We offer our coatings in metal cans if you request it. The downside to a metal can is that you can’t tell exactly when all the pigment is in solution since you can’t see through the bottom of a can.
Spray Booth, Masks, and Gloves
As with all spray coatings, the use of a standard paint mask is recommended as paint fumes should not be inhaled on a repeated basis. Spraying outside behind your shop or home is convenient and generally requires no paint mask. If you are frequently refinishing and have a corner of your garage or other location then you may want to build a small spray booth. A spray booth can easily be made out a few 2x4 studs and clear plastic sheeting and can be built in a corner of a garage. As a door use a screen door and cover with a clear sheet of plastic. A simple and inexpensive squirrel cage fan can be used to vent fumes to the outside through a hose. A standard paint spraying respirator mask should be worn as with all types of spraying to keep from breathing in solids and fumes when spraying. Use a standard type mask with filter that you will find at Home Depot, WalMart, etc. If spraying outside in the open air, the need for the mask is reduced. Gloves are important also to keep from getting the coating on you as with all types of painting but most important is that you do not want to be touching parts before curing with your fingers and getting oil, marks, etc. on the parts. The best gloves are thin disposable Nitrile gloves you can find at any paint store. Latex and PVC Poly type thin gloves fall apart and dissolve when using MEK or Acetone.
Moly Resin can be used to coat some polymers and plastics. The limitations on coating plastics is related to whether your polymer stock, pistols grip, forearm, etc. can safely be heated to 300 f. and held at that temperature for an hour. Some polymers are safe and others are not. There is always the risk of warping, melting or cracking an unsuitable polymer.
Rusted and Pitted Parts
Moly Resin is used often for firearms restorations where rusting and pitting has unfortunately already occurred. The goal is to blast the entire firearms and concentrate on the rusted and pitted areas so the rust is clean out of the pits. The firearm can be coated as usual at that point. By using flat colors like flat black you can reduce the notice of the pitted areas. You can also fill the pit in with silver solder, bronze, etc. and sand it down flush and then apply Moly Resin. How well you hide the pitting will be based on the quality of the metal preparation you performed.
Moly Resin may be applied over an existing cured Moly Resin finish for a touch up. Cured parts with an unfortunate “slipped screw driver scratch”, for example or other marks can be touched up with the airbrush and the part re-cured. Take the damaged part, wipe it clean of solvents and adjust the airbrush nozzle to spray a tiny small mist of coating and then lightly touch up the scratch to blend it out. Then re-cure the part at 300 degrees.
Moly Resin may be used for cosmetic refinishing and/or as a protective coating against the elements. When used as cosmetic finish, it can be unnecessary to disassemble the firearm down to each individual piece. In many instances a large sub-assembly of parts may be coated without breaking it down into small pieces. You may sand blast, preheat, spray, and cure as one large piece since the airbrush will allow you to apply a coating to recesses and cavities and avoid more difficult disassembly.
Appearance – When applied correctly, the bonded coating will appear uniform in color, smooth with a l slight texture like Parkerizing, and free from cracks, runs, sags, scratches, pin holes, fish eyes, bubbles and foreign matter. Always test spray a scrap piece of metal to test application skill and technique.
Thickness – The optimal thickness of the coating should be less than .001” thick unless a thicker coating is desired. Keeping the coating thin allow parts to be easily reassembled.
Hardness – ASTM-D-3363 test results for scratch (mar) and gouge hardness rates phenolic resin at a hardness that exceeds 9H. 9H is the hardest rating for a coating under test method BS3900-E19:15015184.
Lubricity – The darker colors of Moly Resin contains molybdenum disulfide which provides excellent anti-friction characteristics. Wear life was tested on Tabor Abrasurf with #CS10 wheel installed @500 grams weight minimum 235 RPMs.
Thermal Stability- The cured coating will withstand 800 f. for 1000 hours minimum and a 1000 hour soak at -125f. Minimum oxidation temperature is 880 f. Thermal breakaway is 1000 f. minimum
Fluid Resistance- Moly Resin thermal cure products will meet 24 hour emersion requirements in the following fluids: aviation gasoline, hydraulic fluid, jet fuel, trichloroethylene, nitric, sulfuric and hydrochloric acids, hydrogen peroxide, gun powder solvents, strong bases such as ammonium and sodium hydroxide and numerous other strong chemicals.
Corrosion Resistance- Moly Resin when applied correctly to sandblasted cold rolled steel will pass test procedures for salt water spray at 1000 hours, salt water immersion at a minimum of 1000 hours, accelerated salt spray test equivalent to 30 years marine atmosphere exposure , and 60 days sea water immersion.
Material Safety Data Sheet
Identity (as used on label): MOLY RESIN
Chemical Names: Solid Film Lubricant Coating (thermal cure)
Chemical Family: Specialty Phenolic Resin
Formula: Complex Mixture
Blended and Bottled by: John Norrell Inc.
13529 Saddle Hill Dr., Little Rock, AR 72212
Hazardous Materials ID System (HMIS)
Health: 2 Flammability: 3
Reactivity: 0 Special Note: none
SECTION II – Hazardous Components and Toxicity Concentrations
Phenol (Cas # 108-95-2) Trade Secret
ACGIH TLV: 5 ppm (skin) OSHA PEL: 5 ppm (skin)
Ethanol (CAS #64-17-5) < 30 %
ACGIH TLV: 1000 ppm OSHA PEL: 1000 ppm
Molybdenum Disulfide (CAS #1317-33-5) Trade Secret
ACGIH TLV: 10 mg/m3 as MO OSHA PEL: 10 mg/m3 as MO
Methyl Ethyl Ketone (Cas # 78-93-3) >50 %
ACGIH TLV: 200 ppm OSHA PEL: 200 ppm OSHA STEL: 885 mg/m3
Eye and skin irritant and may cause CNS in humans
P.M. Acetate (Cas # 108-65-6) Trade Secret
ACGIH TLV: No Listing OSHA PEL: No Listing
Methyl Isobutyl Ketone (Cas 3 108-10-1) <10%
ACGIH TLV: 50 ppm OSHA PEL: 50 ppm
Residual Formaldehyde (Cas # 50-00-0) Trace
ACGIH TLV: 1ppm OSHA PEL: 3 ppm
Irritating to skin, eyes, and mucous membranes. Carcinogenicity: Animals-yes, humans-indefinite
Freon TF (Cas # 76-13-1) <10%
ACGIH TLV: 1000 ppm OSHA PEL: 1000 ppm
Cellosolve Acetate (Cas # 111-15-9) Trade Secret
ACGIH TLV: 5 ppm (skin) OSHA PEL: 100 ppm (skin)
Stainless Steel (Powder)* (Cas # 7429-90-5) <10%
ACGIH LTV: No Listing OSHA PEL: No Listing
* used only in the Stainless Steel Moly Resin
Inorganic Barium Compound <10%
ACGIH LTV: 0.5 mg/m3 OSHA PEL: 0.5 mg/m3
Mild skin and eye irritant. Carcinogenicity: animals and humans- no
Toluene (Cas #108-88-3) <10%
AGCIH TLV: 100 ppm OSHA PEL: 100 ppm
Isopropyl Alcohol (Cas # 67-63-0) Trade Secret
AGCIH TLV: 400 ppm OSHA PEL: 400 ppm
Xylene (Cas #1330-20-7) <10%
ACGIH TLV: 100 ppm OSHA PEL: 100 ppm
SECTION III – Chemical & Physical Characteristics
Boiling range 165 f. to 180 f.
Vapor Pressure NA
Melting Point NA
Vapor Density (air =1) >1
Evaporating rate NA
Solubility in H2O Moderate
Appearance / Odor Gray-black liquid, organic solvent odor Silver colored liquid, organic solvent odor Volatile Organic Compound 672
SECTION IV – Fire and Explosive Hazard Data
Flash Point: 50 f.
Flammable Limits: LEL 4.3, UEL 19.0
Extinguishing Media: CO2, Foam, Dry Chemical, or Halon
Special Fire Fighting Procedures: None
Unusual Fire and Explosive Hazards:None
SECTION V – Reactivity Data
Conditions to Avoid: Open flame
Decomposition: Irritating and toxic fumes
Hydrogen Sulphide and Sulfur Dioxide
SECTION VI – Precautions for Safe Handling and Use
Steps to be taken in case material is released or spilled:
Clean spill with absorbent material, Eliminate ignition sources, wear gloves, goggles, and gas mask if ppm are exceeded,.
Waste disposal method -Dispose of waste in chemical land fill as approved by local, state and federal laws and regulations.
Precautions to be taken in handling and storing: Ventilate area away from acids, alkalis, and open flames
Other Precautions: None
SECTION VIII – Control Measures
Use NIOSH approved organic respirator if ppm limits are exceeded.
Local Exhaust – used to maintain levels below toxic ppm.
Mechanical – use non-sparking or open flame equipment.
Protective Gloves: Chemical resistant gloves
Eye Protection: Wear safety glasses or goggles
Other Protective Equipment or Practices: None
INFORMATION ON THIS FORM IS FURNISHED SOLELY FOR THE PURPOSE OF COMPLIANCE WITH OSHA’S HAZARD COMMUNICATION STANDARD, 29CFR 1910.1200 AND SHALL NOT BE USED FOR ANY OTHER PURPOSES.